California Road Trip -- 1st Stop: Resort at Pelican Hill

The long-planned and longer-awaited California road trip came and went much too quickly.  As often happens with vacations, it seems that one plans for months and the trip comes and goes in an instant.  The California road trip was no exception.  My wife and I started planning the trip in December, when we were invited to a wedding at the Resort at Pelican Hill in Newport Beach, California.  Not wanting to let a good thing pass us by, we decided to make a vacation of it by driving up the PCH from Newport Beach to Napa, with stops in Los Angeles, Santa Barbara and San Francisco.  It was an amazing trip and made me seriously consider a move back out west.  If you've never driven up the PCH, it is one of those must-drives -- a mix of coastal and mountain scenery, driving through farmland and vineyards, and up, down and around mountains.  Some parts are slow-going, but they allow even the driver to take in the breath-taking views.

Resort at Pelican Hill -- Newport Beach, California

After a surprisingly traffic-free drive from LAX down the coast to Orange County, we arrived at the Resort at Pelican Hill, which is comprised of individual and attached bungalows, a beautiful golf course with mountain and ocean views, an immense circular swimming pool that has to be seen in person to understand just how immense it is and delicious and bountiful food choices.

Our bungalow, set at the end of a windy lane up a long hill, offered a mountain view from the glass walled back patio, a fireplace (that thankfully was not needed) and a spacious bathroom.  Although it was attached in a set of 4 bungalows, the walls were thick enough that we heard nothing from the neighboring bungalows.

Since I don't golf, the pool was the absolute star of the resort.  The pool is a perfect circle bigger than any pool I have ever seen.  The immense size offered more than enough room for chaise lounges for every guest in the resort,  live music, a balcony for restaurant/bar dining and daily rental cabanas.  The service at the pool area was the best I've experienced in the U.S., with personable and responsive servers as well as attendants offering to clean your sunglasses or spray you with scented evian mist.

 Pelican Hill does not have direct access to a beach; however, the resort runs shuttles every half hour should you decide to break from the pool and hit the sand.  Or, if you're a runner, you can jog from the resort to a nearby state park and beach.

The bungalow and shared facilities were absolutely top notch.  I can't say that I would rush back to Newport Beach for a vacation spot, but, if I am back in Orange County for any reason, I would not hesitate to return to Pelican Hill.

House Rental in South Haven

In a bit of a twist from the usual city hotel or resort vacation, I joined my family for a long weekend in South Haven, a little town on Lake Michigan favored by both Detroit metro residents and Chicago metro residents.  Rather than stay at one of the many B&Bs situated on or near the shores of Lake Michigan, my family rented a five bedroom, 3 bathroom cottage just a few blocks from the beach (http://www.michiganvacationcottages.com/cottages/michigan-vacation-cottages-233333-details.html).

It didn't have a concierge desk and we had to do our own laundry, but there was plenty of room, lots of outdoor space for grilling and bocce ball, wireless internet (for those who just couldn't break away from the real world) and a great wraparound porch.

This was the first time I had rented (or, more honestly, my family had rented) a cottage and it presented us with a perfect home base for days at the beach, walking through the little stores in the 3 block downtown of South Haven and just spending hours just sitting and relaxing -- not to mention a whole lot of room for extended family and guests.

Although renting a cottage presents some risks (such as when we found out only a week ahead of our trip that wifi hadn't actually been installed), there are plenty of websites that provide pictures, information and reviews so you can do a good deal of research before making your decision.

A cottage on a lake won't give you a city or a beach resort experience, but it's a great in-between vacation -- for a long weekend or a week -- just to relax and let time slow down if just for a little while.

Using Twitter and Facebook to Your Advantage

I'm a twitter newbie -- my twitter account (@NMSTravels) is only a week old.  However, I've been using twitter for a while.  Sure, as twiiter took off, there was a 90/10 split -- about 90% of twitterers (is that a word?) just used twitter to send out completely worthless comments to the world and 10% of twitterers actually put out great information, late-breaking news updates or just good stories.  Once corporate marketers learned about the power of twitter (and all of social media, most notably facebook), the world of twitter completely changed.  Now, a good deal of twitter accounts are owned and operated by companies - from Fortune 500 corporations to local outlets.  Though some people might fret about the commercialization of social media, I absolute welcome it because, if you know where to look, you can reap all kinds of great benefits.

Over the past year or so, I have religiously checked the twitter and facebook pages of airlines, hotels and resorts to uncover "secret" deals and promotions.  The travel industry has learned that they can manufacture buzz by rewarding devotees and enticing prospective customers with twitter or facebook promotions.  More recently, companies are using foursquare and other social media outlets to do the same thing.  Use of social media will grow and grow for one reason -- it works.

One prime example is Kimpton Hotels' twitter feed (@Kimpton).  Kimpton is running a twitter-only promotion this summer whereby it posts a monthly secret word and if you use that secret word when you check in (July's secret word: flip flop), you get loads of free stuff.  My wife and I stayed in the Palomar Philadelphia over Memorial Day weekend and when we said the secret word, we were rewarded with an upgrade to a suite and free appetizers at the hotel bar.  We are always happy to get free stuff!  But, since the secret word promotion makes you feel like an insider, you are compelled to spread the word to your good friends.  Just a couple weeks later, I told my sister and friend about the secret promotion just before their stay at the Lorien Hotel in Alexandria, Virginia. 

My advice is to use social media to your advantage -- before you book your flights, check for promotions on the twitter pages of the airlines; before you book your hotel or resort, check for deals and special amenities offered only through "liking" their facebook page; and if you are a fan on facebook or a twitter follower, make sure to let the resort know you're coming -- they might just surprise you with a welcome gift!

Atlantic City isn't Las Vegas...but it doesn't have to be

I have been to Atlantic City a few times over the past several years and had always thought of it as the Poor Man's Las Vegas.  The casinos are significantly less grandiose, there are no attractions that come close to the Bellagio fountains or Mirage volcano, the shows don't come close to what Vegas has to offer, and don't get me started on the restaurants and clubs.  However, after my trip to Atlantic City this past weekend, I've found the real secret of Atlantic City -- it isn't Las Vegas, but it doesn't have to be.

While Las Vegas tried the "Family Friendly" experiment for a few years,  it was a huge failure.  But, Atlantic City makes a great family vacation -- there's a huge public beach, a boardwalk, an old-school arcade and the hotel rooms can be had at a fraction of the cost of what a family would pay in Las Vegas.  And, if you're on the East Coast, you can make a weekend trip of Atlantic City for a reasonable amount of money.

Even if you're not planning a family trip, Atlantic City can be a great getaway from East Coasters in the summer.  The summer heat in Las Vegas means that you'll do your best to seek the shelter of casinos and never leave.  But, in Atlantic City, you can spend the day lounging on the beach and playing in the ocean.  And, since you didn't spend the whole day in the casino, you'll have plenty of energy for a long post-dinner gambling session!

Now, if you want the glitz of Las Vegas, Atlantic City will not fulfill your desires.  But, it's not a bad place to go for a nice long weekend.

Mini-Vacation in South Beach

In late April, my wife and I decided to take a mini-vacation to Miami Beach (South Beach), Florida.  We spent 4 nights in the Tides Hotel, a smallish hotel right on Ocean Drive.  We had stayed at the Tides Riviera Maya last May and loved it, so we thought we thought we would try the Tides Hotel in South Beach.  The only similarity between the Tides Riviera Maya and Tides South Beach is the commitment to service and personalization -- both made great efforts in getting to know each guest and responding to questions, requests and concerns.  Thanks to the American Express Fine Hotels & Resorts program, we were upgraded to a junior suite.  It was incredibly spacious and offered great views of the beach and ocean (all rooms at the Tides face the beach/ocean so you're guaranteed a great view!).   While we might try another hotel such as the Setai on our next trip to Miami just for a change of pace, we would absolutely return to the Tides on a future trip.  It's perfect if you prefer a little quieter hotel scene than the other, more trendy hotels.  (My tripadvisor review of the Tides can be found at: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g34439-d111907-r107583979-The_Tides_South_Beach-Miami_Beach_Florida.html)

After walking up and down the length of South Beach, checking out various hotels, we decided that, while the Tides was not exactly on the beach (you had to walk across the street and across a stretch of sand), its location on 12th Street was perfectly situated -- in the midst of restaurants, bars and shopping.  Other hotels, such as the W and Setai, are further up South Beach in what I can only categorize as sketchy-tourist (sketchy at night and packed with wandering tourists during the day).

As a destination, South Beach is an absolute must for a week or long weekend vacation.  It has the people-watching of Vegas, the beach of the Caribbean and the restaurant, bar and club scene of Los Angeles.  Plus, with the multitude of varied cuisines and European tourists, it had a Spanish feel to it.  I highly recommend South Beach if you're thinking of a great beach vacation but don't want to spend the time or money to fly down to the Caribbean.

Honeymoon in Thailand

Just like most American men, I had very little decision making authority when it came to planning my wedding.  However, one item that I had complete control of was the honeymoon.  And I put a lot of time and energy into choosing the destination (final verdict: Thailand) and itinerary (Bangkok, Chiang Rai, Koh Samui and Phuket).  The honeymoon turned out to be absolutely amazing. 

Using a Travel Agent

I had never used a travel agent before.  I had always relied on travel guidebooks, magazines and the internet to plan my vacations.  The internet now has nearly every piece of information you could ever hope to find, so why would I need to pay a professional to do what I could do for myself?  For short trips, basic trips (i.e., traveling to one city) or domestic U.S. trips, that's most likely true, with the exception of using American Express Fine Hotels & Resorts (or comparable service) to obtain freebies you wouldn't ordinarily receive.  But, since we were heading out for over 2 weeks and going to multiple cities half-way across the globe, I thought it would be helpful to enlist an expert.  After speaking with 3 different travel agents recommeded by Travel & Leisure, we chose Sandee Litwin of Litwin Travel.  Sandee was a great help, both in helping decide on our itinerary, as well as to book our hotels (she went the extra mile to inform each hotel that we were honeymooning, which paid off in upgrades, a cake at Four Seasons Koh Samui, a ring holder at Banyan Tree and other great gifts).  But, the best reason for using a travel agent is for protection when things go awry.  In our case, it was our disappointment in Amanpuri in Phuket.  Our nearly $1,000 room was unimpressive when compared to the FS Koh Samui, the majority of the main grounds was concrete and the food was average at best.  We emailed Sandee and by the next morning we had a new reservation for a pool villa at Banyan Treet and a car was waiting to take us there.  THAT is why you use a travel agent!

Quick Tips

Rather than provide you with extended descriptions of the resorts we stayed in (my short reviews are below), I thought I would give you a few quick highlights and tips:

1) In Bangkok, use the water -- the water taxis are by far the easiest, quickest and safest ways to get around (tuk tuks are easy and quick, but definitely not safe -- though it's a great thrill to be speeding through traffic!).

2) Avoid Phuket -- Phuket is way over-touristed.  We loved FS Koh Samui and Koh Samui in general.  In the last year or so, Koh Samui is now the new "it" island with new resorts such as the W, but it is far from the tourist haven of Phuket.

3) Take the tours -- Normally I avoid the paid guides in museums and historical sites.  You get lumped in with a huge crowd and the information is just not that interesting.  We took a private tour of Grand Palace grounds and it was absolutely worth the money (about $20).  The grounds are huge and we would not have gotten much out of it had we not had our tour guide to give us the stories, background and information.

The Reviews

Peninsula Bangkok

We stayed at the Peninsula as the first stop.  The Peninsula made sure that we had an unforgettable experience from the time of check-in to the minute we left Bangkok. When we arrived, we were taken up to our room (upgraded to an amazing suite) where champagne, fruit and chocolates were waiting for us. During our stay, the concierge and other staff made sure that no question went unanswered or need unmet. The location was perfect -- right on the river, with views of the Mandarin and other buildings. We waited no longer than a few minutes at any time for the complementary water taxi, which took us pretty much anywhere we wanted to go. The rooms are a techie's dream -- ipod hook-up, remote control that rotated the TV, touch-button lights, window shades, etc. This was absolutely the best city hotel I've ever stayed in.   We did stop by the Mandarin Oriental.  It was luxurious and very old-world.  We were very impressed, though we preferred the look and feel of the Peninsula.

Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle, Chiang Rai

The Tented Camp was a one-of-a-kind experience that definitely lives up to the hype, awards and reviews.  I am not sure how they do it, but your entire stay is planned full of events, yet you still feel relaxed and have plenty of time to relax, unwind and enjoy the fantastic scenery. Waking up in the morning and drinking coffee on the balcony overlooking the river and mountains made it feel like you were in a movie set. And, learning to ride an elephant bareback (sitting on its head) -- which is the highlight of the Tented Camp -- was slightly scary but great fun. The staff, including Yoni (the GM), ensured that every part of your stay was tailored to your specifications, down to your favorite drinks at the bar and your favorite foods at the restaurant. They even keep your room fully stocked with fruit and fresh cookies.  Although it is quite expensive, considering that everything was included, it was not exorbitantly more than the total amount we paid at other resorts in Thailand -- and the money spent is absolutely worth every penny.

Four Seasons Koh Samui

Four Seasons Koh Samui is an absolute gem.  We stayed in an upgraded villa (thanks to letting them know it was our honeymoon) that boasted a large plunge pool overlooking the water and mountains. Even though you knew there were others at the resort, while in the villa, it seemed like you were the only one on the mountain. We could have stayed in the villa the whole trip if not for wanting to take advantage of the beautiful spa (with each treatment, you have access to a personal sala, with shower, etc., each set up along a path up the mountain). The food, Thai and Italian, was quite good and the amazing staff was happy to make virtually anything you wanted for breakfast, lunch or dinner. The staff went well out of their way to make sure everything was to our satisfaction -- to reserving buggies ahead of time to get around the property (though, if not reserved, you never waited more than a couple minutes), constantly checking on us while on the beach (re-filling water, providing free fruits and other snacks). When we arrived in Phuket, we immediately realized how much more we loved Koh Samui -- it is much less touristy and much more scenic than Phuket and the Four Seasons far outshone both Banyan Tree and Amanpuri.

Amanpuri, Phuket

We were immediately disappointed with when we arrived at the Amanpuri. Although Amanpuri has received numerous awards, we read some reviews about Amanpuri being a bit old and in need of a makeover. Those negative reviews were spot on. You could tell that Amanpuri was built in a different time -- when large areas of concrete were okay and privacy was not at a premium. The villas seemed to be on top of each other and it seemed more of a family-oriented resort rather than a romantic honeymoon spot. The restaurants were average (with less-than-average furnishings).  The one positive was the beach.  It was a beautiful stretch of sand. The per-night rate far exceeded both Four Seasons Koh Samui and Banyan Tree and could not even come close to matching the others in terms of facilities or service.

Banyan Tree, Phuket

We had heard great things about Banyan Tree and were not disappointed.  Our villa was exactly what we had hoped for and more -- a pool villa, which came with a huge swimming pool (not just a plunge pool), a 2-person sun lounge, a sala for shade and a beautiful villa with glass shower that made you feel like you were showering outdoors. On top of all that, to celebrate our honeymoon, when we walked into the villa, there was champagne and gifts, including t-shirts and a small ceramic double-elephant to hold our rings.

The property is connected to several other resorts and you are able to take a shuttle to all of them. We didn't feel the need to, since the beach was a short walk away (it was across a side road), the main pool area was beautiful and they had several good restaurants. Also, they held a celebration for a Thai holiday, with numerous street vendors and lanterns and floats that you could send off in Thai tradition.  I thought this was a nice touch -- giving us tourists a taste of Thai culture.

The service was top-notch. There was no waiting for anything and every request was immediately taken care of. The excursions desk even called after my SCUBA excursion just to make sure everything had gone smoothly and that I had a good time.

My first trip down to South America

After hearing about the Turkish vacation that I took with my little sister, my older sister wanted in.  In the summer of 2005, my two sisters and I headed down to South America for the first time.  To this day, our trip to Peru was one of the best vacations that I have ever had.  Peru is an amazing country, filled with wonderfully nice people, an interesting mixture of indigenous and Spanish culture and microclimates ranging from beach to desert to mountains to jungle.  In a short period of time, one could scale a mountain, raft through the jungle and absorb everything that a metropolis has to offer.

Pisco, Huacachina, and Nasca, Peru

After staying in Lima basically to sleep in some random hostel, we set off south to Pisco, home of a Peruvian liquor you've never heard of. Actually, the highlight of the city is a trip to the Islas Ballestras. These are 'guano islands' off the coast which contain thousands upon thousands of birds (including everyone's favorite -- the booby), sea lions, penguins and birds. It was a really amazing sight to see. Think Hitchcock's 'The Birds' times about 1,000. We then took a tour of a nearby national park which was, honestly, pretty lame. But we did get to have our first ceviche, prepared with fish no more than hours removed from the ocean.

Leaving Pisco the next morning, we headed to Huacachina. The entire coast of Peru is desert and Huacachina is a small oasis in the midst of several huge sand dunes. The highlight of the oasis-town was our attempt at sandboarding. Unfortunately, I am not blessed with athletic prowess or balance. So, needless to say, I tried and tried and fell and fell and fell down, down, down the sand dunes. But it was a lot of fun!

Next after Huacachina, we came to Nasca. Apparently things had been too easy for us (quick bus rides, easy-to-find hostels) and fate caught up with us. Nasca apparently is a mob-run town where everyone has their part in screwing tourists. A nice 'agent' took us to the hostel we wanted and then 'helped' us to find a flight over the area to see the famous Nasca lines -- for a nice $10 per person commission. After we balked at his crazy rates and his 'give me $180 now, just trust me', he left us with another scary agent who promptly took $65 via credit card and promised a flight the next morning..

This morning, after waiting 2 hours at the airport and envisioning leaving Nasca without having seen the lines and having to call Visa to cancel the $180 in charges, we boarded a little Cessna plane to view the Nasca Lines -- drawings of animals carved into the earth, visible only by airplane, carved 2500 years ago by the Nasca tribe. I thought it was a pretty awesome sight.

Arequipa, Peru

Well, it was finally time to leave behind the 1 llama towns and head out via overnight bus to Peru's 2nd largest city, Arequipa. By pure luck, we arrived just in time for Arequipa's 465th anniversary. It was perfect timing! Just as we headed into the main square, a parade started up, followed by a stage play of the founding of the city by Spanish Conquistadors, and an outdoor concert. That night, we experienced hyper-capitalism. It seemed as if every Peruvian was an entrepreneur, either walking around selling all types of food and candy or setting up mini-restaurants on folding tables. The streets were filled with all kinds of these tables, usually cooking either chicken of some sort or beef-on-a-stick. We decided to stop and sit at one table where an old woman served Puncha, which is some homemade type of fruity tea. We sat and spoke (as best we could) with the woman and a Peruvian family who had also sat down to enjoy the Puncha.

The next day, we went white water rafting on the Chili River. It was the coldest water I had ever been in, about 45 degrees! Our main motivation for not falling in the water was the fear of hypothermia! We had a great time, braving class 3 and 4 rapids! We arrived from the rafting trip in time for yet another parade. Peruvians lined the streets all through the city to watch the hundreds of dancers, floats, and marching bands.

Cusco, Peru

It was finally time to leave Arequipa and its 465th birthday behind. We took yet another overnight bus to Cusco -- the capital of the Inca Empire. However, this one was different -- it was the most luxurious one I had ever been on! They served dinner, tea, we played bingo (which I thought I had won, but apparently my Spanish isn't as good as I thought it was), and I fell asleep watching Bridget Jones Diary (quite a step up from the last movie, 'Frankenfish')

Cusco is by far the most touristy city we have been to in Peru, for good and for bad. On the plus side, it is a beautiful, vibrant city. On the negative side, everywhere you go there are people trying to sell you crap, dinner, a tour of Machu Picchu, or all of the above. In our 4 full days in Cusco (2 before the Inca trail, 2 afterward), we really got to know the city, its museums, its markets, and its restaurants. We took a tour of the Cathedral, which, besides several ornate gold-plated Virgin Marys, had a huge painting of the Last Supper with an Andean twist -- they were all dining on guinea pig!

We also took a full day tour of several cities in the Sacred Valley outside Cusco. We spent the day visiting local markets (at one, we were offered a little piglet for only $20) and touring the ruins of elaborate Inca cities and temples. We also, for the first time, had a glimpse of the Dead Woman's Pass thousands of feet above us, which we would climb just 2 days later on the Inca trail.

Surprisingly, the food in Cusco is quite good. We've had our pick of tasty Peruvian, Mexican, Vegetarian, and Middle Eastern food, plus a pizza when we returned to Cusco after the Inca trail.

Machu Picchu, Peru

We just arrived back to Cusco from our 4 day, 50 km hike through the Andes Mountains. It was an unbelievable, unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience. While a single submission cannot do it justice, I will attempt to provide you all with a brief summary.

Our group of 14 people and 2 tour leaders included 2 girls who live in DC and with whom we spent most of our time (and lent us 50 Peruvian Soles when we ran out of money), 4 Spanish women, an Australian, a couple Scots, and a father-son team from South Carolina. Happily, throughout the ordeal, we all got along and bonded through the pain!

Our hike was along the sacred Inca Trail used by the Incas to travel from Cusco to their winter home/religious center in Machu Picchu. We started at about 2700 meters (nearly 9000 feet), climbed to Dead Woman's Pass (4200 meters or 13,800 feet), and finished at Machu Picchu, situated at the end of a string of mountains, 2400 meters above sea level.

The Inca Trail snakes up and down one side of the Andean mountain chain, leaving us spectacular views of the other set of mountains, snow-covered peaks, and the lush Sacred Valley and Urubamba River which cuts right down the middle of the Andes. Along the way, we passed cows, pigs, goats, sheep, and llamas, both on Andean farms and running wild through the mountain brush.

The micro-climates of the Andes provided us a journey through forests and jungle and up past the tree-line for amazing views ranging for several miles in every direction. While much of our time was spent trudging up and down steep stone stairs laid down nearly 600 years ago by the Inca Empire, every rest stop afforded a view of landscape that exceeded the beauty of anything I had ever seen before.

We arrived to the Sun Gate above Machu Picchu in time for sunrise and trekked down for a tour of the immense city of Machu Picchu, where we viewed exquisite granite buildings, temples, and fountains built by the Incas in the 1400s. The area included agricultural platforms built into the sides of the mountain, houses for the 500 residents, and various assorted buildings for communal and religious purposes. Most of the buildings were in nearly the same form as they had when the Inca Empire existed. Machu Picchu was a spectacular finale to an exhausting yet exhilarating 4 day adventure.

As a side note, the tour was unlike anything I had ever experienced. The staff to trekker ratio was 2 to 1, including 20 porters who carried tents, food, cooking equipment, and hundreds of pounds of supplies along the trail. Each porter likely carried 80 to 100 pounds on his back and ran past us on the trail in order to prepare our campsite and unbelievable 5 course meals which awaited our arrival at the end of each day (plus equally as generous breakfasts, lunches, and teatimes). Our primary guide, Roberto, was a passionate Andean who regaled us with stories of both the Inca Empire and the Andean culture as it exists today. His commentary at each of the 5 Inca cities we passed along the way, along with explanations at various points on the trek, allowed us to gain a deeper understanding of the Peruvians of yesterday and today.

We were going to stay a day in Aquas Calientes after the trek, but seeing the tiny room reserved for us and the sorry state of the town, we begged Roberto to exchange our tickets for one which left that day and we hopped on the train back to Cusco, back to real beds, and back to modern civilization.

Puerto Maldonado, Peru

In order to get to our jungle lodge on the banks of Rio Tambopata (a tributary of the Amazon), we had to fly from Cusco to PM Airport, a 40 minute bus ride, and then an hour and a half boat ride. The trip started on shaky ground. At one point during the boat ride, the guide stopped the boat and pointed out "one turtle, just one turtle." If "just one turtle" was a highlight of the area, it was going to be a long 4 days.

Luckily, that one turtle was just the beginning of the amazing flora and fauna that we would see while at the Explorer's Inn, in the heart of the a National Reserve. Although we had assumed that finishing the Inca Trail would also be the end of early morning hikes, we were wrong. Each morning, we woke up at 5am. One morning for a 10km hike, another morning for yet another boat ride down the Tambopata. But, the early wake-ups were well worth it. We were able to see hundreds of Macaws, parrots, and parakeets, monkeys, butterflies, and toucans. We then had the afternoons off to relax and then each night we went on some sort of night activity.

The first night, we went out on the boat to see about a dozen caimans (basically small alligators) feeding in the river and the next 2 nights we went on night hikes to see all kinds of nocturnal animals such as spiders, opossums, and snakes. Of course, each time we saw something, our guide would inform us that "(blank) is extremely poisonous. If you get bitten, you have enough time to say goodbye to your family. And, the nearest hospital is miles away." That made me feel oh so safe as we hiked in the near-pitch black darkness of the jungle.

The trip to the jungle was a great addition to the trip. Since we were just about "cultured out", sick of the museums and cathedrals, it was a refreshing change to just head outdoors (no hot water, no electricity in the bungalows, a Tamarack-like atmosphere) and learn about the amazing diversity of wildlife in the Peruvian jungle.

On our 4th day, we got back into the boat and headed back to "downtown" Puerto Maldonado, whose airport is extremely high tech -- we went through a metal detector that was turned off, virtually no security and a basic free-for-all walking across the runway to get to the airplane.

Now, almost exactly 3 weeks later, we're back where we started -- Lima. So far, it is a much better city than advertised. We're in a hostel in Miraflores, an affluent suburb close to central Lima. Within 3 blocks, there's a casino, the nicest grocery store I've ever seen, a Papa Johns, and the best gelateria this side of the Atlantic Ocean. What more could one ask for? We have one full day in Lima to check out a couple museums and do our final souvenir shopping.