A weekend in Charleston, SC (Planters Inn)

 

After having had a great long weekend a couple years ago down in Savannah, Georgia, my wife and I decided to make another trip south.   The destination for this trip - Charleston, South Carolina.  In mentioning this trip to friends and colleagues, the response was uniformly positive.  And, after 4 days in Charleston, I can safely say that their reviews were spot on -- a charmingly historic city, filled with great restaurants and welcoming residents. 

Although Charleston does not have the beautiful squares littered through Savannah, it is a much larger and more vibrant city.  We spent a day just getting our bearings in the city, walking down the waterfront, marveling at the beautiful and historic homes and exploring the handicrafts, spices, baked goods and art in the city market.  Yet another day included a tour to Ft. Sumter (the first battle of the Civil War) and another was spent roaming the acres and acres of sculpted grounds in the Middleton Place plantation. 

Not that we didn't enjoy all of the walking but it was actually a necessary component of the weekend -- without having walked miles and miles, we absolutely would have come back to DC several pounds heavier.  I cannot rave enough about the food in Charleston, and this is coming from someone that is normally not a proponent of Southern cuisine.  But, dinners at Peninsula Grill, Husk and Cypress changed my mind about the depth of flavor and variety of dishes available.  The luscious, rich, dense and unforgettable coconut cake at Peninsula Grill (enjoyed as leftovers for three days) was nearly enough to convince me to pack up my house and move down to Charleston for good.

We stayed at Planters Inn, which, for location alone (in the middle of the city, right next to the city market), is the reason to make it your home base.  But the Relaix & Chateau-affiliated property makes every effort to enure that each guest's stay is enjoyable, from the cheerful and helpful front desk personnel (who performed double duty as the hotel's concierge) to the sweet tea and cookies served in the afternoon.  Our spacious standard room included a four-poster bed and sitting area.

I would highly recommend Charleston if you're thinking of a long weekend getaway.  It hits all the right chords -- walkable, affordable, easy to get to and enough sights to keep you busy without being exhausting.

California Road Trip -- 5th and Final Stop: Hotel Monaco (SF)

For our 5th and, sadly, final stop of our California road trip, we stayed in the Hotel Monaco in San Francisco, just off of Union Square.  Unfortunately, San Francisco does not put its best foot forward in August.  While the rest of the country bakes in the summer sun, clouds descend on San Francisco and make for a dreary, chilly month.  Neither my wife nor I packed warm clothes, so it took all of one hour before we ducked into a store for some warm weather gear.  After baking in the Napa sun, it was quite a shock to be hit with a weather forecast of 50 degrees and gloomy.

But, as I've come to expect from the Kimpton Hotels, the staff at the Hotel Monaco greeted us with a smile.  We spoke the "secret word" from the Kimpton summer twitter promotion and received coupons for free breakfast -- getting freebies is always a great way to start a hotel stay!  The room, unfortunately, was on the small side and, unlike what we found at the Standard in New York, was not laid out to maximize space.  Rather than a closet, there was a huge standing chest, which took up a good portion of the back wall.  But, we were in San Francisco to walk the city and not to stay in the room, so we wouldn't let the room size deter us from having a great stay.

Although the weather didn't totally cooperate, we loved the trip to San Francisco.  Those energetic enough to walk the hills of the city are rewarded with absolutely amazing views of the Golden Gate Bridge, Bay Bridge, Alcatraz, Coit Tower and the other great sites.  We spent the day walking around Golden Gate Park (which is filled with museums, drum circles, a botanical garden, tea garden and acres of green space), Haight-Ashbury, Sunset, Marina, Japantown, Chinatown, Pacific Heights and everything in between.  

My dream would be to stay in San Francisco and do a daily food tour -- the quantity and quality of great restaurants is just astounding, from the high-end American, French and Vietnamese (Slanted Door is out of this world) to farmers' markets and holes in the wall, you could eat and eat for days on end and never get sick of the food!

We only had about a day and a half to tour the city, so we did our own walking tour, sampling small wine bars, pizza at A16 and snacks along the way.  Although the weather didn't put the city in the greatest light, we had a wonderful time nonetheless.  As we boarded the plane back to DC, we discussed our plan for our next trip back out west.

Standard Hotel -- New York -- It's all about location!

Although there is one more road trip stop to be posted (Hotel Monaco - San Francisco), I wanted to post a review of my stay at the Standard Hotel (New York) this past weekend.  The Standard puts a lot of time and money into creating an "aura of cool" -- a newsletter, multiple websites and an active twitter account -- that is obvious the minute one pulls up to the hotel.  There is a huge KAWS sculpture of a mouse with its head in its hands sitting out front and a busy outdoor area complete with ice cream vendor.  Once inside the small lobby, you walk to one of three podiums to check in with employees who try just too hard to look too cool.  But, if you can get past your instinct that the hotel is operated by that crowd you hated in high school, you realize that the Standard is a great hotel with an amazing location.

The rooms are relatively small (even for NY standards) but are laid out well so that every inch of space is utlized -- the platform bed is up against the wall separating the bedroom from the bathroom, the thin flat panel TV is mounted on the wall.  Somehow they find room for a bench and table.  But, you haven't come to the Standard for the room -- you've come for the location.  My room had floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the Highline, Empire State Building and the water.  You could spend hours just people-watching from on high. 

The Standard is situated right in the heart of the Meatpacking District, which is filled with too many bars and restaurants to count and plenty of shopping (from small boutiques to international names such as Diane von Furstenburg right down the street).  You could have a memorable New York experience without going more than a few blocks from the hotel all weekend.  Or, you could just stay in the hotel -- pre-drink in the beer garden, party all night at Le Bain up on the rooftop and end at the Standard Grill (open until 4am).  If you do decide to venture out, the Standard is just a few blocks from a subway stop that will take you straight to Times Square and, if like me you were headed to the US Open, one transfer away from the 7 train to Queens. 

California Road Trip -- 4th Stop: Carneros Inn (Napa)

The fourth stop on our California road trip was my favorite -- Napa Valley wine country.  Not only was the destination beautiful, the trip along the way was an absolute highlight.  It was a long drive from Santa Barbara up the PCH, so we set out bright and early.  We passed through lush farmland, drove up and down windy mountains with views of rolling ocean waves way down at the bottom of cliffs, stopped in the quaint town of Carmel-by-the-Sea for lunch and detoured through the 17-mile drive, a scenic trip through Pebble Beach.  The drive to Napa alone was worth the trip, but then, upon arrival, we realized that the best is yet to come.

We stayed at the Carneros Inn, recommended by Tablethotels.com, a great website for boutique and unique hotels.  I had high expectations for the Carneros Inn thanks to the helpful and responsive concierge team who helped plan our wine tasting adventure.  Lisa Ross and her concierge team were extremely patient in working with me to develop a day of wine tastings and tours and had great suggestions for a wide range of destinations.  Upon our arrival, we were presented with a full itinerary, which included appointments for a range of wineries (a tour at Pride Mountain, a picnic, tasting and discussion with one of the owners of Schweiger Vineyards and a sparkling wine tasting on the wrap-around balcony at Domaine Carneros).  Of course, we found time for stops at a few others along the way, including Silver Oak and Caymus.

The grounds of Carneros Inn are beautifully manicured, dotted with fruit trees (including a mini apple orchard) and criss-crossed with paths connecting the cottages.  Our cottage was decorated with a modern touch, with a huge bathroom offering both indoor and outdoor showers, and an expansive patio with lounge chairs and a table and chairs for quiet breakfasts or just enjoying the mid-day sun.  Carneros Inn reminded me of a quaint village, with a little market that packed us our picnic lunches and a post office.  We also took advantage of one of the two restaurants (both had plentiful outdoor seating) and relaxed by the infinity pool.  Both the restaurant and pool are situated up on a hill, offering expansive views of the surrounding vineyards and mountains off in the distance. 

We spent our two evenings exploring downtown Napa and Yountville. Both cities have great little shops, art galleries and enough restaurants to keep you full for weeks on end (highly recommend Bottega!).

≈Sadly, we only had two days in Napa.  Five days would have been perfect -- enough time to visit the nearby cities and towns, taste an extensive variety of wines and even spend a day or two just relaxing by the pool or in the spa.  We were already talking about our next trip to Napa on our drive down to San Francisco for the last leg of our trip. 

California Road Trip -- 3rd Stop: Biltmore (Santa Barbara)

While we huddle inside watching the hurricane batter our windows, I thought it would be the perfect time to blog about our third stop on the California road trip -- the Biltmore (Four Seasons Santa Barbara).  After checking out of the Beverly Wilshire, we headed up the PCH, imagining how great life would be if we lived in one of the beautiful waterfront homes in Malibu and enjoying the scenery as we headed north to Santa Barbara.

Pulling up to the Biltmore, you quickly realize what is in store for you:  the driveway is bordered by immaculate landscaping and fronts an unimpeded view of the ocean.  Although we arrived around noon, well before official check-in, our room was already cleaned and waiting for us.  But, we didn't want to waste any time indoors on such a beautiful day so we went to explore the grounds.  There really is no reason to ever leave the hotel -- available for guests are a restaurant and bar facing the ocean (with very good though pricey food and drinks), tennis courts, croquet, a putting green and, just next door, the Coral Casino Beach and Cabana Club, a private club available only to members and Biltmore guests.  You can also hit the small beach just across the street (where we saw 3 seals playing in the waves).

But, there is just too much to do in California's Central Coast not to leave the grounds.  The Biltmore is within a short walking distance from the small main street area of Montecito, filled with boutiques and a few restaurants, and a short drive to downtown Santa Barbara.  The Biltmore is a great base to explore both areas. 

We split the two days in Santa Barbara between shopping and relaxing -- one day walking around Santa Barbara and Montecito, eating, drinking and shopping in the many boutiques and national stores (Shout out to Yogurtland!  We need to find a way to bring a franchise to DC.) and one day playing tennis and basking in the sun at the Coral Casino Beach and Cabana Club.  The Biltmore has 3 tennis courts, which may be reserved ahead of time, tennis balls and loaner racquets all free of charge.  But, the highlight was having access to the Coral Casino Beach and Cabana Club.  It boasts the largest hotel pool in the world (50m long and several lanes wide), comfortable chaise lounges, two restaurants with views of the beach, and attentive staff.  We only wished we could have extended our stay just to have more time by the pool!

As would be expected from a resort that attracts celebrities on a regular basis, the service was top-notch.  The concierge desk was knowledgeable and helpful, check-in was quick and easy and the service in the bar and restaurants seemed to always be at your beck and call.  Although we only had the standard room, it provided us with more than enough space and was conveniently located in the main building with the bar, restaurant and business center.  Perhaps the next time we'll step it up and check in to one of the many suites/cottages that border the windy paths through the grounds. 

My only complaint is that the Biltmore does not offer internet access in the guestrooms.  Wireless is available in the main lobby area but costs $10 for spotty service.  It really does not make sense to nickel and dime the guests by charging for subpar internet service available only in a small part of the resort.

Unfortunately, the two days we stayed there did not allow us enough time to enjoy any of the neighboring areas or vineyards.   As we checked out of the Biltmore and headed up the PCH to Napa, I found myself wishing that I lived in LA just so I could make a habit of weekend trips up to the absolutely beautiful Biltmore and Calfornia's Central Coast.

California Road Trip -- 2nd Stop: Beverly Wilshire

After spending the weekend in Newport Beach, we headed up PCH to the Beverly Wilshire in Beverly Hills.  I had heard so many great things about the Beverly Wilshire (not to mention its central role in "Pretty Woman") that I knew that we had to stay there on our Los Angeles stop.  The Beverly Wilshire lived up to, and actually exceeded, my expectations.  From the moment we arrived, it was clear that the BW lives and breathes customer service.  We were greeted within moments of stepping out of the car and led to the lobby for check-in, where we received an upgraded room (thanks Amex Fine Hotels & Resorts program!).  All of the staff at BW seemed to be genuinely interested in ensuring that each guest has an enjoyable stay.  We even noticed that the staff welcomed children with open arms, personally attending to them with games and faux check-in forms while their parents checked in to their room.  My one comment is that I had heard such amazing things about their foyer.  While it was nice, it was neither one-of-a-kind nor memorable. 

After dropping off our luggage, we headed back down to the lobby where the friendly and knowledgable concierge mapped out our shopping itinerary -- Rodeo Drive, Robertson Blvd and Melrose Blvd.  You absolutely can't beat the location of the Beverly Wilshire.  Rodeo Drive is across the street and the other main shopping areas are just a short drive away.  And, if you prefer to be chauffeured -- the valet at the Beverly Wilshire is happy to arrange for you to be driven to your chosen destination in the house car.

One great surprise was waiting for us upon our return to our room.  I had tweeted earlier in the day that I was on my way to BW and not only did the BW respond via twitter, they surprised me with a plate of chocolates, cookies and a fondant-covered rice krispie treat twitter bird!  The welcome treat made me truly feel that I was cared for and valued as a guest.

Sadly, we only stayed at the BW for one night as we had several more stops to go on our road trip.  But, before leaving, we hit the gym to burn off the many calories we were inhaling along the way (by the way -- huge shout out to the concierge's choice for breakfast -- Jack and Jill's just a few blocks from the hotel.  My wife and I loved it.).  The BW has a well-stocked gym with treadmills, stairmasters, ellipticals and free weights.  And, to ensure you don't fall over with dehydration or starvation, awaiting for you after your workout is infused water and Gatorade on tap as well as muffins and fresh fruit.  My only regret is not having time to enjoy the outdoor pool area or the Thursday poolside happy hour.

The BW is definitely my new favorite city hotel.  The staff and facilities are top-notch and you cannot beat the location as a base for shopping, eating and enjoying Los Angeles.

California Road Trip -- 1st Stop: Resort at Pelican Hill

The long-planned and longer-awaited California road trip came and went much too quickly.  As often happens with vacations, it seems that one plans for months and the trip comes and goes in an instant.  The California road trip was no exception.  My wife and I started planning the trip in December, when we were invited to a wedding at the Resort at Pelican Hill in Newport Beach, California.  Not wanting to let a good thing pass us by, we decided to make a vacation of it by driving up the PCH from Newport Beach to Napa, with stops in Los Angeles, Santa Barbara and San Francisco.  It was an amazing trip and made me seriously consider a move back out west.  If you've never driven up the PCH, it is one of those must-drives -- a mix of coastal and mountain scenery, driving through farmland and vineyards, and up, down and around mountains.  Some parts are slow-going, but they allow even the driver to take in the breath-taking views.

Resort at Pelican Hill -- Newport Beach, California

After a surprisingly traffic-free drive from LAX down the coast to Orange County, we arrived at the Resort at Pelican Hill, which is comprised of individual and attached bungalows, a beautiful golf course with mountain and ocean views, an immense circular swimming pool that has to be seen in person to understand just how immense it is and delicious and bountiful food choices.

Our bungalow, set at the end of a windy lane up a long hill, offered a mountain view from the glass walled back patio, a fireplace (that thankfully was not needed) and a spacious bathroom.  Although it was attached in a set of 4 bungalows, the walls were thick enough that we heard nothing from the neighboring bungalows.

Since I don't golf, the pool was the absolute star of the resort.  The pool is a perfect circle bigger than any pool I have ever seen.  The immense size offered more than enough room for chaise lounges for every guest in the resort,  live music, a balcony for restaurant/bar dining and daily rental cabanas.  The service at the pool area was the best I've experienced in the U.S., with personable and responsive servers as well as attendants offering to clean your sunglasses or spray you with scented evian mist.

 Pelican Hill does not have direct access to a beach; however, the resort runs shuttles every half hour should you decide to break from the pool and hit the sand.  Or, if you're a runner, you can jog from the resort to a nearby state park and beach.

The bungalow and shared facilities were absolutely top notch.  I can't say that I would rush back to Newport Beach for a vacation spot, but, if I am back in Orange County for any reason, I would not hesitate to return to Pelican Hill.

House Rental in South Haven

In a bit of a twist from the usual city hotel or resort vacation, I joined my family for a long weekend in South Haven, a little town on Lake Michigan favored by both Detroit metro residents and Chicago metro residents.  Rather than stay at one of the many B&Bs situated on or near the shores of Lake Michigan, my family rented a five bedroom, 3 bathroom cottage just a few blocks from the beach (http://www.michiganvacationcottages.com/cottages/michigan-vacation-cottages-233333-details.html).

It didn't have a concierge desk and we had to do our own laundry, but there was plenty of room, lots of outdoor space for grilling and bocce ball, wireless internet (for those who just couldn't break away from the real world) and a great wraparound porch.

This was the first time I had rented (or, more honestly, my family had rented) a cottage and it presented us with a perfect home base for days at the beach, walking through the little stores in the 3 block downtown of South Haven and just spending hours just sitting and relaxing -- not to mention a whole lot of room for extended family and guests.

Although renting a cottage presents some risks (such as when we found out only a week ahead of our trip that wifi hadn't actually been installed), there are plenty of websites that provide pictures, information and reviews so you can do a good deal of research before making your decision.

A cottage on a lake won't give you a city or a beach resort experience, but it's a great in-between vacation -- for a long weekend or a week -- just to relax and let time slow down if just for a little while.

Using Twitter and Facebook to Your Advantage

I'm a twitter newbie -- my twitter account (@NMSTravels) is only a week old.  However, I've been using twitter for a while.  Sure, as twiiter took off, there was a 90/10 split -- about 90% of twitterers (is that a word?) just used twitter to send out completely worthless comments to the world and 10% of twitterers actually put out great information, late-breaking news updates or just good stories.  Once corporate marketers learned about the power of twitter (and all of social media, most notably facebook), the world of twitter completely changed.  Now, a good deal of twitter accounts are owned and operated by companies - from Fortune 500 corporations to local outlets.  Though some people might fret about the commercialization of social media, I absolute welcome it because, if you know where to look, you can reap all kinds of great benefits.

Over the past year or so, I have religiously checked the twitter and facebook pages of airlines, hotels and resorts to uncover "secret" deals and promotions.  The travel industry has learned that they can manufacture buzz by rewarding devotees and enticing prospective customers with twitter or facebook promotions.  More recently, companies are using foursquare and other social media outlets to do the same thing.  Use of social media will grow and grow for one reason -- it works.

One prime example is Kimpton Hotels' twitter feed (@Kimpton).  Kimpton is running a twitter-only promotion this summer whereby it posts a monthly secret word and if you use that secret word when you check in (July's secret word: flip flop), you get loads of free stuff.  My wife and I stayed in the Palomar Philadelphia over Memorial Day weekend and when we said the secret word, we were rewarded with an upgrade to a suite and free appetizers at the hotel bar.  We are always happy to get free stuff!  But, since the secret word promotion makes you feel like an insider, you are compelled to spread the word to your good friends.  Just a couple weeks later, I told my sister and friend about the secret promotion just before their stay at the Lorien Hotel in Alexandria, Virginia. 

My advice is to use social media to your advantage -- before you book your flights, check for promotions on the twitter pages of the airlines; before you book your hotel or resort, check for deals and special amenities offered only through "liking" their facebook page; and if you are a fan on facebook or a twitter follower, make sure to let the resort know you're coming -- they might just surprise you with a welcome gift!

Atlantic City isn't Las Vegas...but it doesn't have to be

I have been to Atlantic City a few times over the past several years and had always thought of it as the Poor Man's Las Vegas.  The casinos are significantly less grandiose, there are no attractions that come close to the Bellagio fountains or Mirage volcano, the shows don't come close to what Vegas has to offer, and don't get me started on the restaurants and clubs.  However, after my trip to Atlantic City this past weekend, I've found the real secret of Atlantic City -- it isn't Las Vegas, but it doesn't have to be.

While Las Vegas tried the "Family Friendly" experiment for a few years,  it was a huge failure.  But, Atlantic City makes a great family vacation -- there's a huge public beach, a boardwalk, an old-school arcade and the hotel rooms can be had at a fraction of the cost of what a family would pay in Las Vegas.  And, if you're on the East Coast, you can make a weekend trip of Atlantic City for a reasonable amount of money.

Even if you're not planning a family trip, Atlantic City can be a great getaway from East Coasters in the summer.  The summer heat in Las Vegas means that you'll do your best to seek the shelter of casinos and never leave.  But, in Atlantic City, you can spend the day lounging on the beach and playing in the ocean.  And, since you didn't spend the whole day in the casino, you'll have plenty of energy for a long post-dinner gambling session!

Now, if you want the glitz of Las Vegas, Atlantic City will not fulfill your desires.  But, it's not a bad place to go for a nice long weekend.

Mini-Vacation in South Beach

In late April, my wife and I decided to take a mini-vacation to Miami Beach (South Beach), Florida.  We spent 4 nights in the Tides Hotel, a smallish hotel right on Ocean Drive.  We had stayed at the Tides Riviera Maya last May and loved it, so we thought we thought we would try the Tides Hotel in South Beach.  The only similarity between the Tides Riviera Maya and Tides South Beach is the commitment to service and personalization -- both made great efforts in getting to know each guest and responding to questions, requests and concerns.  Thanks to the American Express Fine Hotels & Resorts program, we were upgraded to a junior suite.  It was incredibly spacious and offered great views of the beach and ocean (all rooms at the Tides face the beach/ocean so you're guaranteed a great view!).   While we might try another hotel such as the Setai on our next trip to Miami just for a change of pace, we would absolutely return to the Tides on a future trip.  It's perfect if you prefer a little quieter hotel scene than the other, more trendy hotels.  (My tripadvisor review of the Tides can be found at: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g34439-d111907-r107583979-The_Tides_South_Beach-Miami_Beach_Florida.html)

After walking up and down the length of South Beach, checking out various hotels, we decided that, while the Tides was not exactly on the beach (you had to walk across the street and across a stretch of sand), its location on 12th Street was perfectly situated -- in the midst of restaurants, bars and shopping.  Other hotels, such as the W and Setai, are further up South Beach in what I can only categorize as sketchy-tourist (sketchy at night and packed with wandering tourists during the day).

As a destination, South Beach is an absolute must for a week or long weekend vacation.  It has the people-watching of Vegas, the beach of the Caribbean and the restaurant, bar and club scene of Los Angeles.  Plus, with the multitude of varied cuisines and European tourists, it had a Spanish feel to it.  I highly recommend South Beach if you're thinking of a great beach vacation but don't want to spend the time or money to fly down to the Caribbean.

Honeymoon in Thailand

Just like most American men, I had very little decision making authority when it came to planning my wedding.  However, one item that I had complete control of was the honeymoon.  And I put a lot of time and energy into choosing the destination (final verdict: Thailand) and itinerary (Bangkok, Chiang Rai, Koh Samui and Phuket).  The honeymoon turned out to be absolutely amazing. 

Using a Travel Agent

I had never used a travel agent before.  I had always relied on travel guidebooks, magazines and the internet to plan my vacations.  The internet now has nearly every piece of information you could ever hope to find, so why would I need to pay a professional to do what I could do for myself?  For short trips, basic trips (i.e., traveling to one city) or domestic U.S. trips, that's most likely true, with the exception of using American Express Fine Hotels & Resorts (or comparable service) to obtain freebies you wouldn't ordinarily receive.  But, since we were heading out for over 2 weeks and going to multiple cities half-way across the globe, I thought it would be helpful to enlist an expert.  After speaking with 3 different travel agents recommeded by Travel & Leisure, we chose Sandee Litwin of Litwin Travel.  Sandee was a great help, both in helping decide on our itinerary, as well as to book our hotels (she went the extra mile to inform each hotel that we were honeymooning, which paid off in upgrades, a cake at Four Seasons Koh Samui, a ring holder at Banyan Tree and other great gifts).  But, the best reason for using a travel agent is for protection when things go awry.  In our case, it was our disappointment in Amanpuri in Phuket.  Our nearly $1,000 room was unimpressive when compared to the FS Koh Samui, the majority of the main grounds was concrete and the food was average at best.  We emailed Sandee and by the next morning we had a new reservation for a pool villa at Banyan Treet and a car was waiting to take us there.  THAT is why you use a travel agent!

Quick Tips

Rather than provide you with extended descriptions of the resorts we stayed in (my short reviews are below), I thought I would give you a few quick highlights and tips:

1) In Bangkok, use the water -- the water taxis are by far the easiest, quickest and safest ways to get around (tuk tuks are easy and quick, but definitely not safe -- though it's a great thrill to be speeding through traffic!).

2) Avoid Phuket -- Phuket is way over-touristed.  We loved FS Koh Samui and Koh Samui in general.  In the last year or so, Koh Samui is now the new "it" island with new resorts such as the W, but it is far from the tourist haven of Phuket.

3) Take the tours -- Normally I avoid the paid guides in museums and historical sites.  You get lumped in with a huge crowd and the information is just not that interesting.  We took a private tour of Grand Palace grounds and it was absolutely worth the money (about $20).  The grounds are huge and we would not have gotten much out of it had we not had our tour guide to give us the stories, background and information.

The Reviews

Peninsula Bangkok

We stayed at the Peninsula as the first stop.  The Peninsula made sure that we had an unforgettable experience from the time of check-in to the minute we left Bangkok. When we arrived, we were taken up to our room (upgraded to an amazing suite) where champagne, fruit and chocolates were waiting for us. During our stay, the concierge and other staff made sure that no question went unanswered or need unmet. The location was perfect -- right on the river, with views of the Mandarin and other buildings. We waited no longer than a few minutes at any time for the complementary water taxi, which took us pretty much anywhere we wanted to go. The rooms are a techie's dream -- ipod hook-up, remote control that rotated the TV, touch-button lights, window shades, etc. This was absolutely the best city hotel I've ever stayed in.   We did stop by the Mandarin Oriental.  It was luxurious and very old-world.  We were very impressed, though we preferred the look and feel of the Peninsula.

Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle, Chiang Rai

The Tented Camp was a one-of-a-kind experience that definitely lives up to the hype, awards and reviews.  I am not sure how they do it, but your entire stay is planned full of events, yet you still feel relaxed and have plenty of time to relax, unwind and enjoy the fantastic scenery. Waking up in the morning and drinking coffee on the balcony overlooking the river and mountains made it feel like you were in a movie set. And, learning to ride an elephant bareback (sitting on its head) -- which is the highlight of the Tented Camp -- was slightly scary but great fun. The staff, including Yoni (the GM), ensured that every part of your stay was tailored to your specifications, down to your favorite drinks at the bar and your favorite foods at the restaurant. They even keep your room fully stocked with fruit and fresh cookies.  Although it is quite expensive, considering that everything was included, it was not exorbitantly more than the total amount we paid at other resorts in Thailand -- and the money spent is absolutely worth every penny.

Four Seasons Koh Samui

Four Seasons Koh Samui is an absolute gem.  We stayed in an upgraded villa (thanks to letting them know it was our honeymoon) that boasted a large plunge pool overlooking the water and mountains. Even though you knew there were others at the resort, while in the villa, it seemed like you were the only one on the mountain. We could have stayed in the villa the whole trip if not for wanting to take advantage of the beautiful spa (with each treatment, you have access to a personal sala, with shower, etc., each set up along a path up the mountain). The food, Thai and Italian, was quite good and the amazing staff was happy to make virtually anything you wanted for breakfast, lunch or dinner. The staff went well out of their way to make sure everything was to our satisfaction -- to reserving buggies ahead of time to get around the property (though, if not reserved, you never waited more than a couple minutes), constantly checking on us while on the beach (re-filling water, providing free fruits and other snacks). When we arrived in Phuket, we immediately realized how much more we loved Koh Samui -- it is much less touristy and much more scenic than Phuket and the Four Seasons far outshone both Banyan Tree and Amanpuri.

Amanpuri, Phuket

We were immediately disappointed with when we arrived at the Amanpuri. Although Amanpuri has received numerous awards, we read some reviews about Amanpuri being a bit old and in need of a makeover. Those negative reviews were spot on. You could tell that Amanpuri was built in a different time -- when large areas of concrete were okay and privacy was not at a premium. The villas seemed to be on top of each other and it seemed more of a family-oriented resort rather than a romantic honeymoon spot. The restaurants were average (with less-than-average furnishings).  The one positive was the beach.  It was a beautiful stretch of sand. The per-night rate far exceeded both Four Seasons Koh Samui and Banyan Tree and could not even come close to matching the others in terms of facilities or service.

Banyan Tree, Phuket

We had heard great things about Banyan Tree and were not disappointed.  Our villa was exactly what we had hoped for and more -- a pool villa, which came with a huge swimming pool (not just a plunge pool), a 2-person sun lounge, a sala for shade and a beautiful villa with glass shower that made you feel like you were showering outdoors. On top of all that, to celebrate our honeymoon, when we walked into the villa, there was champagne and gifts, including t-shirts and a small ceramic double-elephant to hold our rings.

The property is connected to several other resorts and you are able to take a shuttle to all of them. We didn't feel the need to, since the beach was a short walk away (it was across a side road), the main pool area was beautiful and they had several good restaurants. Also, they held a celebration for a Thai holiday, with numerous street vendors and lanterns and floats that you could send off in Thai tradition.  I thought this was a nice touch -- giving us tourists a taste of Thai culture.

The service was top-notch. There was no waiting for anything and every request was immediately taken care of. The excursions desk even called after my SCUBA excursion just to make sure everything had gone smoothly and that I had a good time.

My first trip down to South America

After hearing about the Turkish vacation that I took with my little sister, my older sister wanted in.  In the summer of 2005, my two sisters and I headed down to South America for the first time.  To this day, our trip to Peru was one of the best vacations that I have ever had.  Peru is an amazing country, filled with wonderfully nice people, an interesting mixture of indigenous and Spanish culture and microclimates ranging from beach to desert to mountains to jungle.  In a short period of time, one could scale a mountain, raft through the jungle and absorb everything that a metropolis has to offer.

Pisco, Huacachina, and Nasca, Peru

After staying in Lima basically to sleep in some random hostel, we set off south to Pisco, home of a Peruvian liquor you've never heard of. Actually, the highlight of the city is a trip to the Islas Ballestras. These are 'guano islands' off the coast which contain thousands upon thousands of birds (including everyone's favorite -- the booby), sea lions, penguins and birds. It was a really amazing sight to see. Think Hitchcock's 'The Birds' times about 1,000. We then took a tour of a nearby national park which was, honestly, pretty lame. But we did get to have our first ceviche, prepared with fish no more than hours removed from the ocean.

Leaving Pisco the next morning, we headed to Huacachina. The entire coast of Peru is desert and Huacachina is a small oasis in the midst of several huge sand dunes. The highlight of the oasis-town was our attempt at sandboarding. Unfortunately, I am not blessed with athletic prowess or balance. So, needless to say, I tried and tried and fell and fell and fell down, down, down the sand dunes. But it was a lot of fun!

Next after Huacachina, we came to Nasca. Apparently things had been too easy for us (quick bus rides, easy-to-find hostels) and fate caught up with us. Nasca apparently is a mob-run town where everyone has their part in screwing tourists. A nice 'agent' took us to the hostel we wanted and then 'helped' us to find a flight over the area to see the famous Nasca lines -- for a nice $10 per person commission. After we balked at his crazy rates and his 'give me $180 now, just trust me', he left us with another scary agent who promptly took $65 via credit card and promised a flight the next morning..

This morning, after waiting 2 hours at the airport and envisioning leaving Nasca without having seen the lines and having to call Visa to cancel the $180 in charges, we boarded a little Cessna plane to view the Nasca Lines -- drawings of animals carved into the earth, visible only by airplane, carved 2500 years ago by the Nasca tribe. I thought it was a pretty awesome sight.

Arequipa, Peru

Well, it was finally time to leave behind the 1 llama towns and head out via overnight bus to Peru's 2nd largest city, Arequipa. By pure luck, we arrived just in time for Arequipa's 465th anniversary. It was perfect timing! Just as we headed into the main square, a parade started up, followed by a stage play of the founding of the city by Spanish Conquistadors, and an outdoor concert. That night, we experienced hyper-capitalism. It seemed as if every Peruvian was an entrepreneur, either walking around selling all types of food and candy or setting up mini-restaurants on folding tables. The streets were filled with all kinds of these tables, usually cooking either chicken of some sort or beef-on-a-stick. We decided to stop and sit at one table where an old woman served Puncha, which is some homemade type of fruity tea. We sat and spoke (as best we could) with the woman and a Peruvian family who had also sat down to enjoy the Puncha.

The next day, we went white water rafting on the Chili River. It was the coldest water I had ever been in, about 45 degrees! Our main motivation for not falling in the water was the fear of hypothermia! We had a great time, braving class 3 and 4 rapids! We arrived from the rafting trip in time for yet another parade. Peruvians lined the streets all through the city to watch the hundreds of dancers, floats, and marching bands.

Cusco, Peru

It was finally time to leave Arequipa and its 465th birthday behind. We took yet another overnight bus to Cusco -- the capital of the Inca Empire. However, this one was different -- it was the most luxurious one I had ever been on! They served dinner, tea, we played bingo (which I thought I had won, but apparently my Spanish isn't as good as I thought it was), and I fell asleep watching Bridget Jones Diary (quite a step up from the last movie, 'Frankenfish')

Cusco is by far the most touristy city we have been to in Peru, for good and for bad. On the plus side, it is a beautiful, vibrant city. On the negative side, everywhere you go there are people trying to sell you crap, dinner, a tour of Machu Picchu, or all of the above. In our 4 full days in Cusco (2 before the Inca trail, 2 afterward), we really got to know the city, its museums, its markets, and its restaurants. We took a tour of the Cathedral, which, besides several ornate gold-plated Virgin Marys, had a huge painting of the Last Supper with an Andean twist -- they were all dining on guinea pig!

We also took a full day tour of several cities in the Sacred Valley outside Cusco. We spent the day visiting local markets (at one, we were offered a little piglet for only $20) and touring the ruins of elaborate Inca cities and temples. We also, for the first time, had a glimpse of the Dead Woman's Pass thousands of feet above us, which we would climb just 2 days later on the Inca trail.

Surprisingly, the food in Cusco is quite good. We've had our pick of tasty Peruvian, Mexican, Vegetarian, and Middle Eastern food, plus a pizza when we returned to Cusco after the Inca trail.

Machu Picchu, Peru

We just arrived back to Cusco from our 4 day, 50 km hike through the Andes Mountains. It was an unbelievable, unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience. While a single submission cannot do it justice, I will attempt to provide you all with a brief summary.

Our group of 14 people and 2 tour leaders included 2 girls who live in DC and with whom we spent most of our time (and lent us 50 Peruvian Soles when we ran out of money), 4 Spanish women, an Australian, a couple Scots, and a father-son team from South Carolina. Happily, throughout the ordeal, we all got along and bonded through the pain!

Our hike was along the sacred Inca Trail used by the Incas to travel from Cusco to their winter home/religious center in Machu Picchu. We started at about 2700 meters (nearly 9000 feet), climbed to Dead Woman's Pass (4200 meters or 13,800 feet), and finished at Machu Picchu, situated at the end of a string of mountains, 2400 meters above sea level.

The Inca Trail snakes up and down one side of the Andean mountain chain, leaving us spectacular views of the other set of mountains, snow-covered peaks, and the lush Sacred Valley and Urubamba River which cuts right down the middle of the Andes. Along the way, we passed cows, pigs, goats, sheep, and llamas, both on Andean farms and running wild through the mountain brush.

The micro-climates of the Andes provided us a journey through forests and jungle and up past the tree-line for amazing views ranging for several miles in every direction. While much of our time was spent trudging up and down steep stone stairs laid down nearly 600 years ago by the Inca Empire, every rest stop afforded a view of landscape that exceeded the beauty of anything I had ever seen before.

We arrived to the Sun Gate above Machu Picchu in time for sunrise and trekked down for a tour of the immense city of Machu Picchu, where we viewed exquisite granite buildings, temples, and fountains built by the Incas in the 1400s. The area included agricultural platforms built into the sides of the mountain, houses for the 500 residents, and various assorted buildings for communal and religious purposes. Most of the buildings were in nearly the same form as they had when the Inca Empire existed. Machu Picchu was a spectacular finale to an exhausting yet exhilarating 4 day adventure.

As a side note, the tour was unlike anything I had ever experienced. The staff to trekker ratio was 2 to 1, including 20 porters who carried tents, food, cooking equipment, and hundreds of pounds of supplies along the trail. Each porter likely carried 80 to 100 pounds on his back and ran past us on the trail in order to prepare our campsite and unbelievable 5 course meals which awaited our arrival at the end of each day (plus equally as generous breakfasts, lunches, and teatimes). Our primary guide, Roberto, was a passionate Andean who regaled us with stories of both the Inca Empire and the Andean culture as it exists today. His commentary at each of the 5 Inca cities we passed along the way, along with explanations at various points on the trek, allowed us to gain a deeper understanding of the Peruvians of yesterday and today.

We were going to stay a day in Aquas Calientes after the trek, but seeing the tiny room reserved for us and the sorry state of the town, we begged Roberto to exchange our tickets for one which left that day and we hopped on the train back to Cusco, back to real beds, and back to modern civilization.

Puerto Maldonado, Peru

In order to get to our jungle lodge on the banks of Rio Tambopata (a tributary of the Amazon), we had to fly from Cusco to PM Airport, a 40 minute bus ride, and then an hour and a half boat ride. The trip started on shaky ground. At one point during the boat ride, the guide stopped the boat and pointed out "one turtle, just one turtle." If "just one turtle" was a highlight of the area, it was going to be a long 4 days.

Luckily, that one turtle was just the beginning of the amazing flora and fauna that we would see while at the Explorer's Inn, in the heart of the a National Reserve. Although we had assumed that finishing the Inca Trail would also be the end of early morning hikes, we were wrong. Each morning, we woke up at 5am. One morning for a 10km hike, another morning for yet another boat ride down the Tambopata. But, the early wake-ups were well worth it. We were able to see hundreds of Macaws, parrots, and parakeets, monkeys, butterflies, and toucans. We then had the afternoons off to relax and then each night we went on some sort of night activity.

The first night, we went out on the boat to see about a dozen caimans (basically small alligators) feeding in the river and the next 2 nights we went on night hikes to see all kinds of nocturnal animals such as spiders, opossums, and snakes. Of course, each time we saw something, our guide would inform us that "(blank) is extremely poisonous. If you get bitten, you have enough time to say goodbye to your family. And, the nearest hospital is miles away." That made me feel oh so safe as we hiked in the near-pitch black darkness of the jungle.

The trip to the jungle was a great addition to the trip. Since we were just about "cultured out", sick of the museums and cathedrals, it was a refreshing change to just head outdoors (no hot water, no electricity in the bungalows, a Tamarack-like atmosphere) and learn about the amazing diversity of wildlife in the Peruvian jungle.

On our 4th day, we got back into the boat and headed back to "downtown" Puerto Maldonado, whose airport is extremely high tech -- we went through a metal detector that was turned off, virtually no security and a basic free-for-all walking across the runway to get to the airplane.

Now, almost exactly 3 weeks later, we're back where we started -- Lima. So far, it is a much better city than advertised. We're in a hostel in Miraflores, an affluent suburb close to central Lima. Within 3 blocks, there's a casino, the nicest grocery store I've ever seen, a Papa Johns, and the best gelateria this side of the Atlantic Ocean. What more could one ask for? We have one full day in Lima to check out a couple museums and do our final souvenir shopping.

Adventures in Turkey

Fast forward a couple years to the Spring of 2004.  Coincidentally, my little sister and I both had a whole lot of time off and so we decided to take an extended vacation to Turkey.  It was our first sibling trip (i.e., no parental supervision) and was to be the longest time we had been together since we were kids.  The trip ended up being a great success, both in terms of exploring a new part of the world and in spending a significant amount of quality time together….

Instanbul, Pamukkale, Ephesus, Turkey

Greetings for Turkey! As they say in Turkey...actually I have no clue how they would say that. This language is way too confusing. We've now been in Turkey for 6 days and it has been quite an adventure so far. We spent the first couple days in Istanbul, checking out the mosques, a palace, and the Grand Bazaar (the biggest flea market this side of Palm Beach with thousands of people selling chatchkes of all kinds). We even sat in on Maa'riv and Mincha services where the men tried to out-Amen each other, screaming it at the top of their lungs. Then Vicki and I travelled 18 hours via boat, train, bus, and cab to Pamukkale (thanks to the recent train wrecks, the Turkish President shut the tracks down at 3am and we all had to get off at some station in who-knows-where and take a bus for a few hours only to get on another train!)

Pamukkale's mountains are covered in white from calcium in the streams, making for awesome sights. At the top of the mountain there stood an ancient city with a well-preserved amphitheater. The next day, we went to Ephesus. This was a city that has existed since 500 BC and much has been excavated. We walked around for a couple hours, checking out the stadium, library, and dozens of other structures.

We just arrived in Fetiye on the Mediterranean coast. Our original plan was to take a 4 day cruise along the coast, but they are all sold out. Plan B is to do a day cruise and then take a day trip to the Blue Lagoon.

So, that's our trip so far. It is going great! The people here are so nice and helpful, which is nice since we've gotten lost too many times to count! One major lesson is that it is that the Turks take everything in stride. Trains and buses never leave on schedule, yet no one complains. When we were sent off the train at 3am and when the power went out in the entire city last night, no one batted an eye.

Fethiye, Olympus, Cappadoccia, Turkey

We've spent the last several days relaxing along Turkey's Mediterranean coast. The beaches, while rocky rather than sandy, have been beautiful with clear blue water and imposing mountains rising on three sides. Just spectacular scenery! We picked up 3 things while in the city of Fethiye – suntans, sunburns, and the Sultan's Revenge (if you don’t know what that is, don’t ask.).

After settling in and realizing no Blue Cruises were available for several days, we bought tickets to a one day 12 Islands Tour (which only stopped at 5 of them). We spent the next day aboard a beautiful sailboat with about 30 others, mostly Germans with unnecessary thong bathing suits. The weather was perfect and we spent the time going swimming in the Mediterranean and just laying on the bow soaking in the rays.

The next day we went out to the Blue Lagoon, which might be the most beautiful beach I've ever been on (bright blue water, mountains, etc.).

After 3 leisurely days, we left Fethiye to head to Olympus for another natural wonder--the Chimaera. The 5 hour ride along the cliffs hugging the coast was just beautiful! Wherever nature created beaches along the way, Turkish people would find ways to scale down the rocks and enjoy the azure waters. When we arrrived at Turkish Tamarack—our pension held a couple hundred people, had pool, foosball, and ping pong tables outside next to hammocks and set dinner and breakfast times. It was definitely like being in camp again, just without friendship bracelets. That night we went to see the Chimaera, which, after a 20 minute hike over rocks in the darkness, we arrived at the top of a hill covered in spontaneous fires (gas seeps from the ground and combusts upon hitting the air). It almost reminded me of either Hell or the Fire Swamp (Princess Bride). It was such a cool site, though we did forget our marshmallows!

After a day at the beach and checking out more ruins, we took an overnight bus to Cappodoccia. This area is unlike any I have seen before. There are rock spires, "fairy castles", and entire cities built both into the rocks and underground. We spent some time this morning checking out the Open Air Museum, which was basically a preserved city that was built within dozens of rock spires. Tomorrow we will be taking a full-day tour of the area, including 8 level city built entirely underground and the site where scenes from Star Wars were filmed. Then, after a 3rd day here, we return to Istanbul.

My two month backpacking trip through Europe

Back in the summer of 2002, I quit my job at an internet start-up company in San Francisco, California to head east to law school.  I planned the transition to provide me with more than enough time to travel 2 months through Europe.  This was my first solo trip and I was, needless to say, somewhat nervous and extremely excited.  Though a couple friends were planning to meet up with me for a couple weeks in Italy and France, I was to be on my own for most of the trip.  Though I was not quite sure how I would manage on my own, it proved to be an experience I will remember forever, both in the sights I saw and, more importantly, the confidence I gained by learning that I could manage on my own.  I learned to appreciate periods of solitude (something I had always feared in the past), leave my fate in the hands of strangers and open myself to new experiences.  The trip was not without its bumps, bruises and disappointments, but the positives far outweighed the negatives, and I have ever since urged others to embark on similar adventures.

Though some of the items below may be a bit out of date, and they are a far cry from the 5 star resorts that I have now become accustomed, I hope that you will enjoy my narratives. (Please note that these posts are very lightly edited, since I think it would be more truthful to include them as-written rather than revise them years afterward.  However, I would hope that my writing has improved over time and that you will see a marked improvement in my posts as we get towards present time.  At the very least, the posts below will illustrate the adventures of a wide-eyed 20-something getting his first taste of solo travel.)

Madrid and Barcelona

I wanted to let everyone know what´s going on with my trip to Europe.  I´m now in day 5 (i think. these days run together) and am in Barcelona. After flying to Madrid, I spent a full day and a half there and that was ALL that i needed. It was pretty much like any large city with as many McDonalds as street corners. I then decided to go to Sevilla. Unfortunately, no trains were available. So, I thought ¨this is what´s great about having no itinerary! i´ll just go to another city!!" I then hopped a train to Barcelona. 8 hours later, I arrived. Of course, I had no place to stay and everything was full. I ended up finding this random "hotel" (translation: someone´s 3 bedroom apartment that became a 3 room hotel with shared bathroom and kitchen).

Since that night, though, I´ve been at Hostel Kabul which might as well be called Camp Tamarack. 6 people per room, 3 bunk beds. Very social camp-like atmosphere. But, i really love it since i´m traveling alone and it makes it SO easy to meet random people.

Since this email is getting mighty long, I thought I´d give you a nice rundown in top five style:

Top Five Things Neil has learned since arriving in Europe:

5. I should have stuck with that spanish class. Getting by on English, 10 words each of French and Spanish, and a whole lot of sign language just isn´t cutting it.

4. Traveling alone means going where I want to go, including the Barcelona zoo (which has an albino gorilla) and a trillion museums (Miro, Picasso, modern art, etc.)

3. Traveling alone means i talk to myself much more than usual.

2. Bullfights are just nasty. Picture the wings-´canes game but without the ´canes goalie and defense but instead of getting a point for scoring a goal, you get to kill one member of the ´canes team.  There is a whole lot of blood, 6 dead bulls, and lots of screaming Spaniards. I ended up cheering for the bull (one actually nailed one of the matadors and ripped his side!)

1. Money goes quickly. Museums, olympic parks, etc. cost lots of money. luckily this falafel stand near me doesn´t ($2!)

Llavorsi, Spain

After a week in Barcelona, it was time for a ¨vacation from a vacation¨ as one of my traveling partners put it. Six long days of sightseeing and six long nights of partying make Neil a tired boy.  So, three others (2 girls, 1 guy) and I decided to take 2 trains and a bus up 5 hours north into the Pyrenees mountains on the border between France and Spain, a small town called Llavorsi. As soon as we arrived, we thought we had found a mountain paradise. A tiny town (one with 1 pharmacy, 1 bakery, 1 bus daily to civilization...) sat next to a rushing river and between beautiful mountains. Nothing but rest and relaxation for us!

After arriving, we checked into this small hotel next to the river, threw our stuff down and immediately went to relax, napping to the sounds of the rushing water. The next day we went white water rafting. It was awesome!! 2 hours of smashing into waves of water, flying into the air, and a quick swim in freezing, yet somehow refreshing, water. The next day, the other guy and me decided to take a quick hike up a nearby mountain. The next thing we knew, we had traveled 3 hours straight uphill, going from 800km above sealevel to 1,300km. To give you an idea, the town looked like a tiny speck and we could see snow-capped mountains just past our town. Down below we saw a herd of sheep and along the way we saw a deer, snake, and a mountain lion (okay, we didn´t see the lion, but we definitely heard it growling in the bushes!!) I was so exhausted by the hike (which eventually totaled about 5 hours and 15km) that I went to sleep that night at 9pm and didn´t wake up until 9am the next morning. As we took the bus back to civilization this morning, I realized that this town was one of the most beautiful I have ever been to. It was an experience I won´t soon forget.  

Geneva and Interlaken, Switzerland

 

I have one thing to say: Canyoning is awesome!! Read on to see
why....

After nearly 2 weeks in Spain, it was time to head east. Although our tickets were booked to Zurich, we got off in Geneva and decided to spend the day there. Geneva was quite a beautiful city. Home to  the Red Cross and UN (European offices), it seemed to also be the headquarters for relaxation. 

The city sits on picturesque Lake Geneva and is filled with lush greenery and public parks. After  doing a bit of touring the city, I watched the World Cup on this massive TV screen in one of the parks and stayed to watch a Brazilian-themed dance party. Very fun!!

After Geneva, I headed to Interlaken. I stayed at another Camp Tamarack-style hostel with more Americans than you can imagine. Surrounded by both lush, green mountains and snow-capped mountains, I just sat in the park, admiring the scenery. But, the best part of Interlaken is the canyoning.  Basically, a group of people pull on a wetsuits and travel through a maze of rocks, rapids, and forest. We slid down waterfalls, climbed over boulders, and rapelled down a 25 foot cliff. It was an incredible experience! 

Prague, Czech Republic

I arrived in Prague early Friday morning (I shared a sleeper compartment with two jovial Czechs who greated me with a hearty good morning when I woke minutes before our train arrived in Prague), checked into my hostel, and immediately went off with several Americans to watch the US-Germany world cup match. While the US lost, it was a great game.   But, the best part was my first experience with the unbelievable prices of Prague. 9 people ate, averaged 4 huge beers and lots of food each, and it totaled all of $27!! I love this country!

After the beer wore off, I took some time to explore the city of Prague. It seemed to me the European city that time forgot. Sure, the first floors of the main areas housed TGI Fridays and McDonalds, but the rest of the buildings seemed to have remained untouched since the Middle Ages. I walked for hours in and out of the Old Town, New Town (est. 1300 or so), and Jewish quarter. It is what one would picture as "Old World Europe".

There is so much to write of my 5 days in Prague, but I won't bore you with the details. The highlights of the trip were my experiences learning about the Czech Jewish community. During WWII, Hitler saved 5 synagogues and thousands of Jewish objects to create a "Museum of an extinct race". While he failed, what he did do was preserve hundreds of years of Jewish history. The synagogues were beautiful and it was great to see spice boxes and tallit over 500 years old.

I also took 2 day trips. One to the Terezin concentration camp, were the knowledgeable tour guide expounded upon the harsh environment in the camp and pointed out the mass graves of 80,000 Jews that perished there during WWII. I also took a day trip to the Bone Church. This was a strange and morbid church where some half blind monk took the bones of 40,000 people who had died during a plague and made artistic objects out of them. Very, very weird.

Milan and Naples, Italy

 
I have finally made it to Italy. Though it took several trains (Prague to Stuttgart to Zurich to Milan), I did it. Actually, Milan, itself, was a stopover before my ultimate destination of Naples. Since I had about 6 hours before my train to Naples, I set out to explore Milan. It is a nice city, with more designer stores per square meter than any other place in Europe (Okay, I am making that up but it seems reasonable). I also had time to visit the Duomo, which is the 3rd largest church next to the ones in Seville and Vatican.

I finally arrived in Naples on Friday morning. The city is complete chaos. No street lanes, barely any traffic lights, and motorcycles zooming from the street to the sidewalk and back. One Naples man I met explained the driving system as, "Red means 'go', Yellow means 'go', and Green means 'watch out because someone might hit you'".  The city, itself, is pretty disappointing. The pizza is pretty good and the gelato is great (as it was in Milan). There are 3 major tourist sites, but the most famous (archaelogical museum) was closed due to striking museum workers. I think that the best part of Naples is the ability to leave it and go elsewhere. I spent a day trip with a couple Canadians I had met. We took the train out to Pompeii and Mt. Vesuvius. Both were really cool sites, though I was disappointed hat Mt. Vesuvius did NOT have any lava inside nor was any flowing down to Pompeii. I also took a day trip to the island of Capri. One of the guys I spoke to was spending a week and a half there. I easily understood why. Beaches, beaches, beaches! The scenery around the island is supposed to be beautiful, but I never made it past the first beach I came to.

Florence, Italy

Florence is a big change from Naples. It is clean, unchaotic, and beautiful. The first day I arrived, I just walked around the city and just stared at the buildings, walked the bridges, and, of course, had to sample the gelato (which is now becoming a daily treat! pants getting tighter....). I visited the only synagogue in Florence and learned of the history of the Jewish community there, including the work of the local citizens to protect the Jews during the Holocaust.

Most of my time in Florence was spent hanging out with one of the girls I had gone rafting with in Spain. We sooned learned that Florence is a highly cultured and quiet city. No real bars, most people just visit these tiny bar-like places and drink wine standing up at the counter. But, we did stumble upon a free evening opera concert, where we were forced (by peer pressure) to grab a bottle of
wine and sit on the grass with 100 others (we didn't share the wine with the others, though).

Although Florence has many museums and tourist spots, I refused to enter all but two. The reason: Florence recently doubled their admission prices and eliminated student discounts. I didn't feel the need to pay $8 to wait an hour outside and finally get in to see Michelangelo's David (besides, they have 2 replicas elsewhere in the city). I did climb the 483 (mom-unfriendly) steps to the top of the Duomo to see beautiful views of the city and spent a couple hours in their famous Ufizi gallery (filled with paintings by Michelangelo, Rafael, and the other ninja turtles).  Beautiful
scenery, sculptures and other artistic designs everywhere you look,
and great food! But, alas, it is time to leave....for Cinque Terra on the Italian Riveria! Sun, sun, sun! 

Cinque Terre and Pisa, Italy

 
I just spent a couple days in one of the more beautiful places in Europe: Cinque Terre. Cinque Terre is a group of 5 little towns which are along the Italian Riviera. The beaches are awesome and the views are spectacular. I spent my first day doing...absolutely nothing and I loved it! I just collapsed on the beach and fell asleep to the crashing waves. The second day, I hiked from one town to the next via a poorly marked trail which took me over the cliffs looming over the water's edge and through vineyards, olive and fruit trees. At one point, I lost the trail and ended up climbing up the side of a cliff. When I slipped and nearly fell many, many meters to the sea, I decided to turn back and find the actual trail. The views from the top of the cliff were unbelievable. At times, when no one was near, you could close your eyes and hear nothing but waves crashing on the rocks below. After a tiring hike, I just had to grab some gelato and relax by the ocean's edge.

From Cinque Terre, I took a train to Pisa. I soon found out that the Leaning Tower of Pisa is the city's ONLY claim to fame. Had the tower stayed straight, no one would ever know this city existed. But, the tower was cool and I took a bunch of pictures. And that is about all I can tell you about Pisa.

Rome and Venice, Italy

I just finished a fantastic several days in Rome and Venice. For a nice change of pace, I am actually hanging out with people I have known for more than 2 days!! For the last week, I have been traveling with my friends, Matt and Mary. I have to say, even though traveling alone is fun, it is great to be able to be with people you actually have a history with. And speaking of history...Rome, a city full of ruins and overflowing with history. The first day in Rome, Mary, Matt, and I took an informative city tour. We saw where Caesar was murdered, where the gladiators fought, and many sights mentioned in 'Gladiator'. It was great! I learned many things, such as the fact that Romans were very sick people (bloodthirsty goons) and virtually every building in the city is a church (they even put a cross in the Coliseum so it would now be a 'church'). Everywhere you go, you see a relic or ruin 1,000 or 2,000 years old. It was really interesting for anyone interested in history. I also was able to tour the huge synagogue that has been under 24-hour police surveillance since a PLO terrorist attack in 1982. We also spent a full day in the Vatican. Unfortunately, the Pope was away on vacation.  St. Peter's Church was amazingly large and ornate and the Sistine Chapel was beautiful, though i was nearly thrown out of it for taking pictures!

The last two days have been spent in Venice. A city where you can basically throw out the map, because there is no way to find your way from one spot to the next. But, it is a very cool city. Though the gondolas at $100 a pop were too expensive to try, I was able to sample the BEST gelato place in the world…twice. We toured around the city, walked through the Doge's Palace, and the Jewish Ghetto.  Though the city was a bit touristy and the food extremely expensive, I am glad that I was able to visit it.

Brussels, Antwerp, and Bruges, Belgium

If you are ever travelling in Europe and get sick of pushing through hundreds of tourists to see some famous statue or to take a $100 gondola ride, go immediately to Belgium. Belgium lacks major monuments and museums. Because of this, you are forced to just sit down in one of several public squares and just relax and ingest the Belgian culture. Of course, I didn't know this before arriving.

I decided to do a quick tour of Belgium, approximately one day each in Brussels, Antwerp, and Bruges. Each city could best described as "cute". Narrow streets, pedestrian-only thoroughfares, and "old world charm". Brussels is probably best known for NATO headquarters, though most locals know its real distinction: a fountain of a peeing child. Pretty funny.

Of the three cities, I enjoyed Antwerp the best. Its old section was a maze of old, yet distinguished buildings, gothic churches, and more pubs per square foot than anywhere in the world. I sat for hours in a streetside cafe, drinking Belgian beer (Belgians take their beer very seriously, each one has its own uniquely shaped glass to maximize its taste. Of course, they all taste the same to me!) and listening to street performers sing and play their instruments.  Of course, the REAL reason I liked it the best was for the kosher food. Antwerp has the largest diamond cutting industry in the world, completely run by orthodox Jews (see "Snatch" the movie). For dinner, I had a HUGE kosher steak that made me feel like John Candy chowing down on the "old 96 'er" in "The Great Outdoors").

Bruges, Europe's Cultural City of 2002, was extremely touristy, yet beautiful once you walked several hundred meters out of the main section. I toured a 150-year-old brewery and sampled the awesome Belgian chocolates.

Not many people travel to Belgium as part of their trip to Europe, but I am glad that I was able to visit, getting away from the hustle and
bustle of Europe's major cities and just relax with a beer and some
chocolate truffles.

Normandy Beaches and Paris, France

After leaving the land of beer and waffles, I arrived in the land of wine and cream sauces — France. My first stop was Bayeux, this little town in Normandy. I came here to meet up with Matt and Mary (who had been in Switzerland) and tour the World War II D-Day Beaches. The D-Day tour, while the group was less than enjoyable and the guide not as informative as I would have liked, was extremely interesting. We visited Omaha Beach (one of the 2 beaches where the American forces landed), a German artillery fortification, the American Cemetery, a museum, and Point Du Hoc (where 200 Rangers scaled the cliffs on a mission to destroy German heavy artillery).  It was great to be able to visit the places I have heard so much about and to see the beginning of the end of the Nazi regime. It was a great side trip on the way to Paris.

Speaking of Paris, Mary, Matt and I spent 4 days exploring the city.  I had visited Paris with my family a few years ago in the dead of winter. Summertime is much nicer, the Luxemburg Gardens are beautiful and I spent hours just roaming the Latin Quarter, Opera/Madeline district, and Marais. Of course, we did go see the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame and the other usual Parisian monuments. We also spent an exhausting day visiting the museums. It was great to  isit the Louvre, Musee D'Orsay, and Centre Pompidou and see the paintings I learned (or was supposed to learn) about in my art history class.

Since I had been to Paris before, I had only 2 agenda items: kosher shwarma (which I ate 3 days in a row) and Le Restaurant (easily the BEST restaurant in France, at least of the ones that I have been to). Paris in the summertime is a great experience. Everyone is outside enjoying the weather and the people-watching is outstanding. And, if you can ignore the urine-smelling subway system and the utterly obnoxiously rude French attitude, you might consider it one of the top cities of Europe.

Glasgow and Edinburgh, United Kingdom

I finally left the Continent and arrived in Scotland. Rather than spending the money on an expensive ride through the Chunnel, I booked myself on this little budget airline, Ryan Air. While I was a bit nervous (considering it flew out of this tiny airport an hour outside of London, sharing space with goodjet.com), I made it to Glasgow safe and sound. Glasgow was not such an exciting city, though it was such a relief to finally be in a country where people speak English as their primary language. I listened to bagpipe players on the street and wandered through the main section of town, which had alternated kilt stores with Starbucks and Pizza Huts.

After a day in Glasgow, I took the train over to Edinburgh.  Edinburgh is a great city! The "old city" is just beautiful, with old buildings, Edinburgh Castle, and Holyrood Palace (where the royal family stays when in the city). On the first day, I wanted to see all the sites in the old city. The first stop: the whisky tour and tasting room. A great tour that ended in 4 different whiskys to taste. Three hours later (thanks to lots of alcohol and a guy from Canada to talk hockey with), I finally pulled myself away to see nearby Edinburgh Castle. The day ended with a great concert by Paul Simon at the foot of the castle. The next day, I went to see the other sites: Museum of Scotland, U. of Edinburgh, Holyrood, and others. I definitely could have spent a few more days in the city, but it was time for my six day tour of Scotland to begin. The tour promises to bring us to the William "FREEEEDOM!" Wallace memorial, a haunted castle, and the Isle of Skye.

Scottish Highlands and the Isle of Skye, United Kingdom

I just arrived back in Edinburgh after an AMAZING 6 day tour of Scotland. Amazingly, of the 35 people on the bus, I was the only American.  I went with Haggis Tours, which provided 2 guides and all the planning.  This was a nice change from my self-guided tour of mainland Europe. During the tour, we hiked beautiful landscape (mist covered mountains, huge lochs, and heather-covered fields), went to see Glen Nevis mountain where Braveheart was filmed, watched a Highland Games competition (you know them, we call them "World's Strongest Man" where monstrous men in kilts and 200 pound women throw rocks and logs as far as possible), visited Loch Ness (nope, no signs of Nessie the Loch Ness Monster), saw the William "Freedom!!!" Wallace Memorial, and stayed in a beautiful old castle. This has definitely been a highlight of my trip so far. It was so nice to get out of the big cities and enjoy the beautiful (though NOT sunny or warm or dry) countryside. We even got a chance to see a Hairy Coo, the hairy Scottish Highland cow.