California Road Trip -- 5th and Final Stop: Hotel Monaco (SF)

For our 5th and, sadly, final stop of our California road trip, we stayed in the Hotel Monaco in San Francisco, just off of Union Square.  Unfortunately, San Francisco does not put its best foot forward in August.  While the rest of the country bakes in the summer sun, clouds descend on San Francisco and make for a dreary, chilly month.  Neither my wife nor I packed warm clothes, so it took all of one hour before we ducked into a store for some warm weather gear.  After baking in the Napa sun, it was quite a shock to be hit with a weather forecast of 50 degrees and gloomy.

But, as I've come to expect from the Kimpton Hotels, the staff at the Hotel Monaco greeted us with a smile.  We spoke the "secret word" from the Kimpton summer twitter promotion and received coupons for free breakfast -- getting freebies is always a great way to start a hotel stay!  The room, unfortunately, was on the small side and, unlike what we found at the Standard in New York, was not laid out to maximize space.  Rather than a closet, there was a huge standing chest, which took up a good portion of the back wall.  But, we were in San Francisco to walk the city and not to stay in the room, so we wouldn't let the room size deter us from having a great stay.

Although the weather didn't totally cooperate, we loved the trip to San Francisco.  Those energetic enough to walk the hills of the city are rewarded with absolutely amazing views of the Golden Gate Bridge, Bay Bridge, Alcatraz, Coit Tower and the other great sites.  We spent the day walking around Golden Gate Park (which is filled with museums, drum circles, a botanical garden, tea garden and acres of green space), Haight-Ashbury, Sunset, Marina, Japantown, Chinatown, Pacific Heights and everything in between.  

My dream would be to stay in San Francisco and do a daily food tour -- the quantity and quality of great restaurants is just astounding, from the high-end American, French and Vietnamese (Slanted Door is out of this world) to farmers' markets and holes in the wall, you could eat and eat for days on end and never get sick of the food!

We only had about a day and a half to tour the city, so we did our own walking tour, sampling small wine bars, pizza at A16 and snacks along the way.  Although the weather didn't put the city in the greatest light, we had a wonderful time nonetheless.  As we boarded the plane back to DC, we discussed our plan for our next trip back out west.

Standard Hotel -- New York -- It's all about location!

Although there is one more road trip stop to be posted (Hotel Monaco - San Francisco), I wanted to post a review of my stay at the Standard Hotel (New York) this past weekend.  The Standard puts a lot of time and money into creating an "aura of cool" -- a newsletter, multiple websites and an active twitter account -- that is obvious the minute one pulls up to the hotel.  There is a huge KAWS sculpture of a mouse with its head in its hands sitting out front and a busy outdoor area complete with ice cream vendor.  Once inside the small lobby, you walk to one of three podiums to check in with employees who try just too hard to look too cool.  But, if you can get past your instinct that the hotel is operated by that crowd you hated in high school, you realize that the Standard is a great hotel with an amazing location.

The rooms are relatively small (even for NY standards) but are laid out well so that every inch of space is utlized -- the platform bed is up against the wall separating the bedroom from the bathroom, the thin flat panel TV is mounted on the wall.  Somehow they find room for a bench and table.  But, you haven't come to the Standard for the room -- you've come for the location.  My room had floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the Highline, Empire State Building and the water.  You could spend hours just people-watching from on high. 

The Standard is situated right in the heart of the Meatpacking District, which is filled with too many bars and restaurants to count and plenty of shopping (from small boutiques to international names such as Diane von Furstenburg right down the street).  You could have a memorable New York experience without going more than a few blocks from the hotel all weekend.  Or, you could just stay in the hotel -- pre-drink in the beer garden, party all night at Le Bain up on the rooftop and end at the Standard Grill (open until 4am).  If you do decide to venture out, the Standard is just a few blocks from a subway stop that will take you straight to Times Square and, if like me you were headed to the US Open, one transfer away from the 7 train to Queens. 

California Road Trip -- 4th Stop: Carneros Inn (Napa)

The fourth stop on our California road trip was my favorite -- Napa Valley wine country.  Not only was the destination beautiful, the trip along the way was an absolute highlight.  It was a long drive from Santa Barbara up the PCH, so we set out bright and early.  We passed through lush farmland, drove up and down windy mountains with views of rolling ocean waves way down at the bottom of cliffs, stopped in the quaint town of Carmel-by-the-Sea for lunch and detoured through the 17-mile drive, a scenic trip through Pebble Beach.  The drive to Napa alone was worth the trip, but then, upon arrival, we realized that the best is yet to come.

We stayed at the Carneros Inn, recommended by Tablethotels.com, a great website for boutique and unique hotels.  I had high expectations for the Carneros Inn thanks to the helpful and responsive concierge team who helped plan our wine tasting adventure.  Lisa Ross and her concierge team were extremely patient in working with me to develop a day of wine tastings and tours and had great suggestions for a wide range of destinations.  Upon our arrival, we were presented with a full itinerary, which included appointments for a range of wineries (a tour at Pride Mountain, a picnic, tasting and discussion with one of the owners of Schweiger Vineyards and a sparkling wine tasting on the wrap-around balcony at Domaine Carneros).  Of course, we found time for stops at a few others along the way, including Silver Oak and Caymus.

The grounds of Carneros Inn are beautifully manicured, dotted with fruit trees (including a mini apple orchard) and criss-crossed with paths connecting the cottages.  Our cottage was decorated with a modern touch, with a huge bathroom offering both indoor and outdoor showers, and an expansive patio with lounge chairs and a table and chairs for quiet breakfasts or just enjoying the mid-day sun.  Carneros Inn reminded me of a quaint village, with a little market that packed us our picnic lunches and a post office.  We also took advantage of one of the two restaurants (both had plentiful outdoor seating) and relaxed by the infinity pool.  Both the restaurant and pool are situated up on a hill, offering expansive views of the surrounding vineyards and mountains off in the distance. 

We spent our two evenings exploring downtown Napa and Yountville. Both cities have great little shops, art galleries and enough restaurants to keep you full for weeks on end (highly recommend Bottega!).

≈Sadly, we only had two days in Napa.  Five days would have been perfect -- enough time to visit the nearby cities and towns, taste an extensive variety of wines and even spend a day or two just relaxing by the pool or in the spa.  We were already talking about our next trip to Napa on our drive down to San Francisco for the last leg of our trip. 

California Road Trip -- 3rd Stop: Biltmore (Santa Barbara)

While we huddle inside watching the hurricane batter our windows, I thought it would be the perfect time to blog about our third stop on the California road trip -- the Biltmore (Four Seasons Santa Barbara).  After checking out of the Beverly Wilshire, we headed up the PCH, imagining how great life would be if we lived in one of the beautiful waterfront homes in Malibu and enjoying the scenery as we headed north to Santa Barbara.

Pulling up to the Biltmore, you quickly realize what is in store for you:  the driveway is bordered by immaculate landscaping and fronts an unimpeded view of the ocean.  Although we arrived around noon, well before official check-in, our room was already cleaned and waiting for us.  But, we didn't want to waste any time indoors on such a beautiful day so we went to explore the grounds.  There really is no reason to ever leave the hotel -- available for guests are a restaurant and bar facing the ocean (with very good though pricey food and drinks), tennis courts, croquet, a putting green and, just next door, the Coral Casino Beach and Cabana Club, a private club available only to members and Biltmore guests.  You can also hit the small beach just across the street (where we saw 3 seals playing in the waves).

But, there is just too much to do in California's Central Coast not to leave the grounds.  The Biltmore is within a short walking distance from the small main street area of Montecito, filled with boutiques and a few restaurants, and a short drive to downtown Santa Barbara.  The Biltmore is a great base to explore both areas. 

We split the two days in Santa Barbara between shopping and relaxing -- one day walking around Santa Barbara and Montecito, eating, drinking and shopping in the many boutiques and national stores (Shout out to Yogurtland!  We need to find a way to bring a franchise to DC.) and one day playing tennis and basking in the sun at the Coral Casino Beach and Cabana Club.  The Biltmore has 3 tennis courts, which may be reserved ahead of time, tennis balls and loaner racquets all free of charge.  But, the highlight was having access to the Coral Casino Beach and Cabana Club.  It boasts the largest hotel pool in the world (50m long and several lanes wide), comfortable chaise lounges, two restaurants with views of the beach, and attentive staff.  We only wished we could have extended our stay just to have more time by the pool!

As would be expected from a resort that attracts celebrities on a regular basis, the service was top-notch.  The concierge desk was knowledgeable and helpful, check-in was quick and easy and the service in the bar and restaurants seemed to always be at your beck and call.  Although we only had the standard room, it provided us with more than enough space and was conveniently located in the main building with the bar, restaurant and business center.  Perhaps the next time we'll step it up and check in to one of the many suites/cottages that border the windy paths through the grounds. 

My only complaint is that the Biltmore does not offer internet access in the guestrooms.  Wireless is available in the main lobby area but costs $10 for spotty service.  It really does not make sense to nickel and dime the guests by charging for subpar internet service available only in a small part of the resort.

Unfortunately, the two days we stayed there did not allow us enough time to enjoy any of the neighboring areas or vineyards.   As we checked out of the Biltmore and headed up the PCH to Napa, I found myself wishing that I lived in LA just so I could make a habit of weekend trips up to the absolutely beautiful Biltmore and Calfornia's Central Coast.

California Road Trip -- 2nd Stop: Beverly Wilshire

After spending the weekend in Newport Beach, we headed up PCH to the Beverly Wilshire in Beverly Hills.  I had heard so many great things about the Beverly Wilshire (not to mention its central role in "Pretty Woman") that I knew that we had to stay there on our Los Angeles stop.  The Beverly Wilshire lived up to, and actually exceeded, my expectations.  From the moment we arrived, it was clear that the BW lives and breathes customer service.  We were greeted within moments of stepping out of the car and led to the lobby for check-in, where we received an upgraded room (thanks Amex Fine Hotels & Resorts program!).  All of the staff at BW seemed to be genuinely interested in ensuring that each guest has an enjoyable stay.  We even noticed that the staff welcomed children with open arms, personally attending to them with games and faux check-in forms while their parents checked in to their room.  My one comment is that I had heard such amazing things about their foyer.  While it was nice, it was neither one-of-a-kind nor memorable. 

After dropping off our luggage, we headed back down to the lobby where the friendly and knowledgable concierge mapped out our shopping itinerary -- Rodeo Drive, Robertson Blvd and Melrose Blvd.  You absolutely can't beat the location of the Beverly Wilshire.  Rodeo Drive is across the street and the other main shopping areas are just a short drive away.  And, if you prefer to be chauffeured -- the valet at the Beverly Wilshire is happy to arrange for you to be driven to your chosen destination in the house car.

One great surprise was waiting for us upon our return to our room.  I had tweeted earlier in the day that I was on my way to BW and not only did the BW respond via twitter, they surprised me with a plate of chocolates, cookies and a fondant-covered rice krispie treat twitter bird!  The welcome treat made me truly feel that I was cared for and valued as a guest.

Sadly, we only stayed at the BW for one night as we had several more stops to go on our road trip.  But, before leaving, we hit the gym to burn off the many calories we were inhaling along the way (by the way -- huge shout out to the concierge's choice for breakfast -- Jack and Jill's just a few blocks from the hotel.  My wife and I loved it.).  The BW has a well-stocked gym with treadmills, stairmasters, ellipticals and free weights.  And, to ensure you don't fall over with dehydration or starvation, awaiting for you after your workout is infused water and Gatorade on tap as well as muffins and fresh fruit.  My only regret is not having time to enjoy the outdoor pool area or the Thursday poolside happy hour.

The BW is definitely my new favorite city hotel.  The staff and facilities are top-notch and you cannot beat the location as a base for shopping, eating and enjoying Los Angeles.

California Road Trip -- 1st Stop: Resort at Pelican Hill

The long-planned and longer-awaited California road trip came and went much too quickly.  As often happens with vacations, it seems that one plans for months and the trip comes and goes in an instant.  The California road trip was no exception.  My wife and I started planning the trip in December, when we were invited to a wedding at the Resort at Pelican Hill in Newport Beach, California.  Not wanting to let a good thing pass us by, we decided to make a vacation of it by driving up the PCH from Newport Beach to Napa, with stops in Los Angeles, Santa Barbara and San Francisco.  It was an amazing trip and made me seriously consider a move back out west.  If you've never driven up the PCH, it is one of those must-drives -- a mix of coastal and mountain scenery, driving through farmland and vineyards, and up, down and around mountains.  Some parts are slow-going, but they allow even the driver to take in the breath-taking views.

Resort at Pelican Hill -- Newport Beach, California

After a surprisingly traffic-free drive from LAX down the coast to Orange County, we arrived at the Resort at Pelican Hill, which is comprised of individual and attached bungalows, a beautiful golf course with mountain and ocean views, an immense circular swimming pool that has to be seen in person to understand just how immense it is and delicious and bountiful food choices.

Our bungalow, set at the end of a windy lane up a long hill, offered a mountain view from the glass walled back patio, a fireplace (that thankfully was not needed) and a spacious bathroom.  Although it was attached in a set of 4 bungalows, the walls were thick enough that we heard nothing from the neighboring bungalows.

Since I don't golf, the pool was the absolute star of the resort.  The pool is a perfect circle bigger than any pool I have ever seen.  The immense size offered more than enough room for chaise lounges for every guest in the resort,  live music, a balcony for restaurant/bar dining and daily rental cabanas.  The service at the pool area was the best I've experienced in the U.S., with personable and responsive servers as well as attendants offering to clean your sunglasses or spray you with scented evian mist.

 Pelican Hill does not have direct access to a beach; however, the resort runs shuttles every half hour should you decide to break from the pool and hit the sand.  Or, if you're a runner, you can jog from the resort to a nearby state park and beach.

The bungalow and shared facilities were absolutely top notch.  I can't say that I would rush back to Newport Beach for a vacation spot, but, if I am back in Orange County for any reason, I would not hesitate to return to Pelican Hill.

House Rental in South Haven

In a bit of a twist from the usual city hotel or resort vacation, I joined my family for a long weekend in South Haven, a little town on Lake Michigan favored by both Detroit metro residents and Chicago metro residents.  Rather than stay at one of the many B&Bs situated on or near the shores of Lake Michigan, my family rented a five bedroom, 3 bathroom cottage just a few blocks from the beach (http://www.michiganvacationcottages.com/cottages/michigan-vacation-cottages-233333-details.html).

It didn't have a concierge desk and we had to do our own laundry, but there was plenty of room, lots of outdoor space for grilling and bocce ball, wireless internet (for those who just couldn't break away from the real world) and a great wraparound porch.

This was the first time I had rented (or, more honestly, my family had rented) a cottage and it presented us with a perfect home base for days at the beach, walking through the little stores in the 3 block downtown of South Haven and just spending hours just sitting and relaxing -- not to mention a whole lot of room for extended family and guests.

Although renting a cottage presents some risks (such as when we found out only a week ahead of our trip that wifi hadn't actually been installed), there are plenty of websites that provide pictures, information and reviews so you can do a good deal of research before making your decision.

A cottage on a lake won't give you a city or a beach resort experience, but it's a great in-between vacation -- for a long weekend or a week -- just to relax and let time slow down if just for a little while.